Greece - Folegandros + Athens

September 12, 2018

Greece - Folegandros + Athens

“Everything you can imagine is real.”

– Pablo Picasso

Simplicity at its finest

And then there is all that you can't imagine that is just as beautiful wrapped up in Greece. One of my favourite places - filled with great people, history and memories. Athens is a love or hate for most - it's perfectly rough around the edges and refuses to change, minus a few upgrades including a new airport and subway system. The islands are stunning, but Athens is the soul of Greece, has been and always will be. It has been through so much hardship and yet the people will always continue to greet you with arms wide open, a warm smile, good stories and the best coffee.

Finally free of scaffolding

The Essentials:
1) No pretense, the street food souvlaki is like no other, no need to dress it up but there are plenty of fancier options and cafes for a range of modern Greek food. Greek salad is another one you can't go wrong with in most simple tavernas.
2) Hotels: Fresh Hotel near Monastiraki is a lovely new addition in a neighborhood you couldn't venture into a few years ago - great roofdeck with bar, pool and stunning views. Central Market right across the street. Athens may not feel safe but it is one of the safest cities in the EU.

View from Fresh

3) Coffee: Greece does ice coffee right, frappes even better.

Iced to Perfection

4) Why Love the Greeks: Democracy, Olive Oil and Shoes: handmade sandals at Kallipous and right next door at Melissinos the Poet Sandal Maker. (Sorry Italy, Greek olives are the best in the world.)

5) Plaka gets a bad reputation for being a tourist den but it still has lovely cafes and views of the greatest pieces of history: Acropolis, the amphitheater and Hadrian's Library.

No filters needed on this blue

The Islands:
1) Flying is an easy option out of Athens, especially through Milos and then ferry from there. Santorini and Mykonos are beautiful and fun but overcrowded, expensive and not the purest Greek Island experience - for a bit longer of a journey, you can get such a warmer experience all around.

Milos Layover

2) Folegandros is stunning and a true hidden gem: September is less crowded, the water is at its warmest and the August winds have died down. Stay at the Anemi Hotel, rent a 4x4 for the day, hiking/beaches/restaurants, it's my favourite island. Try the local Matsata at any of the restaurants in the town of Chora - in the main square is actually really good - especially with a pre-dinner sunset hike up to the Panagia Church. Beez for cocktails is a must. Hike to some of the more remote beaches, especially Agios Nikolaos and then the restaurant Papalagi for fresh fish.