We went around without looking for each other, but knowing we went around to find each other.
- Julio F. Cortazar
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| A tribute to true love |
So many stories of love and life wrapped up in a poetic mess of colour, spirit and soul. India has been on my list for over a decade and lives up to many of its expectations and promises, just go into it with a sense of humour and flexible approach. So many contradictions in a simple yet complicated place - nonetheless, immense sense of pride, joy, craftsmanship and life everywhere you turn.
Have never been one for any sort of guided travel, but India is one of the places I realised this was much needed and appreciated, especially the first time around - Black Tomato will customise the trip any way you want so it doesn't feel anything but your own, just with some help along the way. We learned alot more this way in a land that is so rich with history and stories and culture.
Kites, birds, mopeds, elephants, tractors, weddings, anything goes - always something moving, happening, changing in India - like a constant beehive of life, love and colour. Fascinating to watch how it all blends together somehow. No amount of planning could ever coordinate such an orchestra.
The Essentials
1) Delhi - we landed here and drove straight to Agra, a bit long (4+ hours depending on traffic), but worth it if you can make sunset at the Taj Mahal and then get up and do sunrise again. The light is like no other, equally beautiful at both times.
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| Worth the 4am wakeup... |
2) Taj Mahal - was pleasantly surprised how much I loved this stunning tribute to true love (although she asked him to do it apparently!); it really has a soul and beauty that is breathtaking. And yes, stay at the Oberoi, the first night in India should be stress free and they do it right, worth every penny. The restaurant thali is stunning as is the Indian Sula red wine and the coffee for sunrise is one of the best.
Agra Fort less impressive but a nice stop on the way to Jaipur...watch out for the monkeys
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| Jaipur, Rajasthan - mountains + desert |
3) Jaipur - another long car ride, but arriving here for sunset cocktails really makes you feel like you are finally in India. It has a mix of Morocco and Turkey - a center of commerce since the Silk Route and everywhere you will see the local artisans at work with some of the most beautiful textiles I have ever seen. Purchase the LOVE JAIPUR guidebook for the best things to do, see, shop and eat in Jaipur but a quick summary of our highlights below:
- Hotel: Samode Haveli is a stunning 200 year old palace and has a lovely quaint courtyard and garden for cocktails and dining, feels very cosy and located in the old town. Loved the character vs the higher end hotels like Rambagh Palace which are a nice to see but too formal for my liking.
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| Samode Haveli garden & pool |
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| Hotel Courtyard |
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| Sunset Cocktails @ Rooftop Bar |
- Shopping: Ridhi Sidhi for bed linens, sheets and robes; Anokhi for clothes, paper, napkins; Aashka for caftans and scarves. Not really into jewellry but Amrapali is a lovely visit. Jaipur is also good for copper cooking items, paper, and the usual spices: turmeric, mustard seeds the most popular. Good Earth, Rasa and the Royal Kite Center next time.
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| The original Ridhi Sidhi...don't be fooled by knockoffs |
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| Textile Mecca |
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| Any fabric, colour, pattern you could ever imagine |
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| Lovely Jaipur...Hawa Mahal (just a facade really but pretty in the morning light) |
- Sites: the Amer (Amber) Fort is stunning and worth a visit on a sunny day for stunning views of Rajasthan. the little town below is also home to one of my favourite things in India: Stepwells!
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Amber Fort hillside
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| Panna Meena Ka Kund Stepwell |
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| Amber Fort and stunning views |
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| Tikam Chand, vintage photographer on the streets of Jaipur |
4) Ananda in the Himalayas: a relaxing end to a busy trip, have wanted to hike here for many years and having a ayurvedic spa onsite makes it that much more pleasant. Going for the sites and walks alone is worth it and you can customise the experience as much as you like, although I preferred to keep it rather simple and enjoy the local scenery and some chill spa time. And my favourite quote was being reminded to 'enjoy our moments' by one of the lovely staff...I grew to love hearing it from him every time and will forever remember all the moments and remember to enjoy them no matter what and where. A sweet reminder of the gentle side of India, a quiet calm that I think the Himalayas has always represented for me and lived up to in every way.
There are areas where tigers, leopards and elephants just roam the surrounding national park areas - we didn't see any - but plenty of monkeys, birds and other less threatening creatures. Equally entertaining and slightly aggressive about breakfasts. As much as I love yoga, wasn't a big fan of Rishikesh but nice to go down, definitely learned a few new yoga things after 20 years so that was a nice surprise - and even tried meditation which probably won't help with my abundance of energy. But a long hike in the Himalayas definitely will...till next time.
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| You can almost see Everest... |
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| Himalayan Wishing Tree |
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Cows, cars, tuktuks, anything goes - this road leads to China
and is slowly being expanded, slowly being the key word |
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| Sunset ceremony along the Ganges in Rishikesh, the birthplace of yoga |
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| The holiest Ganges (very green and beautiful here) |
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| Sunrise Himalayas |
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| The beautiful and regal Himalayan Rose |
Some Helpful Tips
1) Delhi - we skipped Delhi and drove straight from the airport to Agra, worth it
2) Bring some snacks to get you through when you are traveling from place to place
3) Bring lots of small change, in a service orientated place like India, tipping is expected
4) February is perfect weatherwise - cool and sunny, and warm enough in the mountains to swim and hike which is perfect. Air quality is more doable, masks not needed afterall.
5) Driving advice from local: What you need is good horn, good brakes and good luck!
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| Happy Birthday dearest friend, many more adventures to come....lots of love. xxx |
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